Friday 31 July 2015

Days 24-27: a summary

Day 24. Meerbusch - Wissel (95.4 km)
Up early this morning to beat the wind that had been forecast. The route was mostly along the flood wall between the Rhine and the interior, so was quite exposed to the (head)wind. Legs didn't want to get going and I struggled through to lunch like that.
Lunch was at a small restaurant in
Rheinberg: Spaghetti and chicken, with salad and a beer.
My legs finally started working after lunch and the day started to warm up.
The campsite in Wissel was massive, much like a small town, but I think there were only about 4 people in it.
Had a quiet night watching the stars.

Day 25. Wissel - Enspijk (114 km)
Another day riding into a headwind along the Rhine. Met a few people who took it upon themselves to see that I made it through the navigational spaghetti that the Rhine path threw u
p occasionally. Unknown to me, the path took some crazy dips and turns while the map showed a straight line. One elderly gentleman explained to me at length the complexities of one particular corner and how I could not afford to miss it. All in German. While SHOUTING!
I understood the jist of what he was saying and safely got through.
Another man rode with me for a few km's, pointing out all the bridges and signs and then, in the middle of a field, stopped, turned around and went home!
The campsite was even bigger than the one in Wissel the previous night. Loads of trailers and astroturf lawns, caravans and white picket fences. Little yappy dogs on long leads. Mobility scooters.
No tents.
Except mine.
The restaurant was closed so it was McDonald's for dinner...

Day 26. Enspijk - Hook van Holland (109 km)
Potentially the last day today.
The first half of the day wound through beautiful countryside, small villages and winding waterways.
The headwind was with me all day, softer at first but as I got closer to Rotterdam and the Hook of Holland, it strengthened. The clouds got heavier and lower and made the last few km's quite hard-going.
From Rotterdam to the Hook of Holland, the scenery is mostly dockyards, shipping containers and quite ugly. I think there are over 8000 different ports on this stretch of the Rhine/Waal/Lek (the name changes quite often)!
I was tiring quite a bit today, I was hungry when there wasn't any food about, I wasn't hungry when it was there - my body was suffering as a result. I just wanted to stop and sit and eat and do nothing!
As I neared the ferry I started trying to get a plan of action together: book ferry ticket tonight, go to campsite, have dinner, sleep.
Catching the ferry in the morning without worrying about the ticket was the plan, but when I was in the ticket hall at the ferry port, the clerk asked if I knew what the weather was about to do.
I said no, but could see that it was getting darker and had now started to rain.
The weather was about to get much worse, so I inquired about a ticket back to the UK that same night, leaving all plans of camping on the beach in the bin, along with a Clif bar wrapper.
On the ferry, the shower was amazingly hot and satisfying, the beer at the bar thirst-quenching and the food somewhat OK.
Sleep arrived on time. I don't think I had any dreams that night.


Day 27. Harwich - Home
A gentle bump stirred me awake, then the blaring PA announcement made sure there was no chance of going back to sleep.
We were back in the UK, in Harwich.
My trip was over.
I caught the train back to London, looking at the "smiling, happy people" confined to suits and ties, heading into work.
I knew then that what I had just finished was something special.

I felt free and relaxed and unburdened.



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